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A Brilliant Invention or Medical Quackery? You Decide....
The Lakhovsky Multiple Wave Oscillator

Some Background on Georges Lakhovsky
Between 1929 and 1941 Georges Lakhovsky demonstrated that cells in living matter (plants, people, bacteria’s, parasites, etc.) are electrical in nature. He showed how living cells manifest the electrical properties of resistance, capacitance, and inductance and that living cells emit and receive electromagnetic radiations at their own resonant frequencies. He observed this oscillatory nature of healthy cells and the fact that, during an invasion by microbes, the cells entered into a state of oscillatory disequilibrium or disease. Lakhovsky observed that high frequency radio waves could energize cells due to the resonating structure found in each cell that acted as an antenna. Georges Lakhovsky demonstrated that the application of an external electrical field generated by the multiple wave oscillator was able to generate frequencies that have characteristics of living organisms. He observed this oscillatory nature of healthy cells and the fact that, during an invasion by microbes, the cells entered into a state of oscillatory disequilibrium or disease. Lakhovsky observed that high frequency radio waves could energize cells due to the resonating structure found in each cell that acted as a receiving antenna.

Georges Lakhovsky demonstrated that the application of a pulsed electric field generated by the multiple wave oscillator was able to generate frequencies that are characteristic of living organisms. This type of pulsed electric field generates only capacitive or displacement currents, rather than the conventional charge conducting currents. Under the effect of MWO fields, living tissues behave mostly according to their dielectric properties rather than their electric conductive properties. Thus, the multiple wave oscillator apparatus utilizes electric fields that are bio-effective and have little or no thermal effects. After many experiments Lakhovsky succeeded in constructing an apparatus generating electric fields in which all frequencies from 3 meters to the infra-red region could be produced. In this field every cell could find its own frequency and vibrate in resonance. Moreover it is known that a circuit supplied by damped high frequencies currents gives rise to numerous harmonics. These considerations led Lakhovsky to invent an oscillator of multiple wavelengths in the field of which every cell, every organ, every nerve, every tissue, could find its own resonant frequency. To the end of this multiple wave oscillator he devised a diffuser (antenna) consisting of a series of separated concentric oscillating circuits connected with one another by silk threads. Thus a type of oscillator was obtained giving all fundamental wavelengths from 10 cm to 400 meters, corresponding to frequencies of 750 KHz to 3 GHz. In addition to this, each circuit emits numerous harmonics which, together with their fundamental waves, interference waves and effluvia (brush discharge), may extend as far as the infra-red and visible light regions.
In 1931, due to limitations of his first short wave oscillator (2 to 10 meter wavelength) and also because of limited effectiveness in some cases, he developed a more sophisticated device he called "The multiple wave oscillator" that emits different wavelengths. In the middle of 1931, Lakhovsky witnessed the effects of his multiple wave oscillator in different French clinics. With the help of his device he was able to cure some cancer patients. One of Lakhovsky's friends asked him why he didn't take a fee for his treatment? Lakhovsky replied:

"I have dedicated my whole life, all my money to fight cancer. The best reward
is to see how poor people are cured by the use of my machine. There is nothing
better than to see patients after several years’ healthy and full strength, in
whose eyes I read thanks and appreciation. It is for me more valuable than all
the riches and honours of this world."
Although Geroges Lakhovsky was famous and respected by all his colleges throughout Europe, he was relatively unknown in the USA. Due to his writings against the Nazis and biological racism, Lakhovsky followed the advice of his friends and contacts in the French government, and fled the NAZI occupation of France for the United States. He was welcomed in New York by Doctor Disraeli Kobak. Following his arrival in New York, one colleague said this about him, "Europe has cast upon our shores many great scientific minds who fled the persecutions of the German invader, among them Einstein, etc. Georges Lakhovsky, however, is unique among these countless refugees. For his contributions to the future of our health and to the potential welfare of our American people is unsurpassed in scope and utility. We Americans should be happy to have among us a scientist like Georges Lakhovsky. We are therefore honored to present the public this great work, which will stand as a monument to the scientific progress of the twentieth century."

About Steffan — I have been working with and restoring high frequency antique medical devices since 2011. Prior to that I have many years experience as a residential and commercial electrician. My mom spent many years in the allopathic medical industry, but later became a self educated naturopath and an intuitive healer. So it's no coincidence that my interest in technology and natural and alternative health became a big part of my life. I was more or less groomed for this kind of work which ultimately led me down the rabbit hole of exploration and to Georges Lakhovsky's multiple wave oscillator. In the early 20th century men like Royal Rife, Georges Lakhovsky, and a few others invented high frequency Tesla based technologies that seemed to be very effective in treating and perhaps even curing the dreaded disease that I will simply label as the BIG "C". I was so fascinated by Lakhovsky's machine that I decided to build a MWO based on original specifications. For quite some time Lakhovsky's MWO was shrouded in mystery, because after his death in 1942, all of his machines world wide seemed to vanish. Electrical engineers around the globe only had old photos to study and because parts of the machine were obscured from view, researchers could only guess how the device was constructed. No one got it right until about 15 years ago when Tony Kerselaers from Belgium and Bruno Sacco from Switzerland managed to find three original, commercial Lakhovsky multiple wave oscillators that had been kept in storage by a retired Italian physician. Kerselaers being a radio engineer with over 30 patents, reverse engineered 2 of the three machines and published the results in a book titled, "Lakhovsky Multiple Wave Oscillator Secrets Revealed". Using Kerselaers' book as a reference, I built a MWO based on the original specs. My wife and I sit in the MWO 2-3 times per week.

   

   

   

 

   

 
Information Links
To find out more about Georges Lakhovsky's MWO,
a good place to start is Tony Kerselaers' WEB SITE.
Books by Georges Lakhovsky
Radiations and Waves
A book dealing with Georges Lakhovsky's research in to the Multi Wave Oscillator. Download PDF(5 MB)

The Secret of Life
Download PDF (16.5MB)
Additional Reading
An article about the Lakhovsky MWO by the Comella Foundation
https://thecomellafoundation.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/mwo6.pdf
An article by Tony Kerselaers
Lakhovsky Oscillating Circuits - How They Work.pdf (478Kb MB)
A person in Virginia USA has a Lakhovsky compliant MWO and has been offering session for the past few years. Check out the testimonials on his web site.
The Altered States MWO Web Page also has a lot of good MWO info.
An Introduction to The Herxheimer Reaction.
This article explains why sometimes people can initially feel worse after one or two sessions with the MWO.

Semantic Scholar: A series of links to papers on BEMs. Bioelectromagnetics (BEMs) is the study of the effect of electromagnetic fields on biological systems. Though electromagnetic fields have sometimes been associated with potential for harm to the body, there are many BEM instruments and devices re-emerging in the 21st century, based on high voltage Tesla coils, that apparently bring beneficial health improvements to human organisms. The Tesla coil class of therapy devices constitute pulsed electromagnetic fields (PEMF) that deliver broadband, wide spectrum, non-thermal photons and electrons deep into biological tissue. Electro-medicine or electromagnetic healing are the terms applied to such developments in the ELF, RF, IR, visible or UV band. With short term, non-contacting exposures of several minutes at a time, such high voltage Tesla PEMF devices may represent the ideal, noninvasive therapy of the future, accompanied by a surprising lack of harmful side effects. A biophysical rationale for the benefits of BEM healing a wide variety of illnesses including cancer, proposes a correlation between a bioelectromagnetically restored transmembrane potential, and the electron transport across cell membranes by electroporation, with normal cell metabolism and immune system enhancement. The century-long historical record of these devices is also traced, revealing questionable behavior from the medical and public health institutions toward such remarkable innovations. This report also reviews the highlights of several BEM inventions but does not attempt to present an exhaustive nor comprehensive review of bioelectromagnetic healing devices. The history of BEM Healing dates back as far back as 1890, the American Electro-Therapeutic Association conducted annual conferences on the therapeutic use of electricity and electrical devices by physicians on ailing patients. Some involved current flow through the patient, while others were electrically powered devices. At first, only direct current (DC) devices were utilized in the medical doctor's office for relieving pain and vibrating female patients who were routinely diagnosed with hysteria.
web page
Disclaimer

The information on this web page has been collected from numerous sources on the internet and we make no claim that the information is either true or false. If you have questions or doubts, please do your own research as to what this tech is and how it was used. Links are provided that should give the lay person a foundational understanding of the MWO. The Lakhovsky multiple wave oscillator is an experimental device meant for research purposes only. Steffan Heydon makes no claims of any kind. He has no intention to treat or cure any illness or health condition in any person that decides to experience the MWO. Please see a medical professional if your are ill or in poor health. Experience the MWO at your own risk. Sessions are supervised, however we assume no responsibility for any electric shock, physical or psychological harm, or death as a result of experimentation with this machine.

Steffan's Tesla Coil Page
September, 5th 2026
This web page is provided to offer assistance and information to anyone that is wanting to construct a Tesla coil. I encourage you to make use of the other resources we offer on this page. I live in the United States, and in this country the electrical line voltage standard is 120V at 60Hz. However, once you are passed the high voltage transformer, it is all pretty much the same. All of my measurements are in inches, but those can easily be converted to centimeters.

Your Tesla coil will ultimately be an expression of you and the finished product will reflect information and techniques you have gathered not only from this page but perhaps from many others. Most of the tesla tutorials I find out there only provide a fraction of the information you really need to build your coil. Or the information is way to technical and one gets lost in a see of numbers and calculations. Feeling overwhelmed can be one's greatest stumbling block to building a Tesla coil. As long as you have some general woodworking and soldering skills, you can do it! I do not plan to include exact measurements of everything, as I wish to leave some creative effort to the builder to come up with his or her own solutions and designs. I will do my best to offer a comprehensive tutorial that if followed precisely, will render a very nice Tesla Coil. There are many details involved to having a finished tesla coil, so just start on one part and continue step by step and you will be successful. If you don't have the skills or tools yourself to build a Tesla coil, perhaps there is someone (maybe a teacher or relative) who does and would be happy to assist in the construction.  

Tesla Coil with Modifications
built by Steffan during the spring of 2013
How I Built My Tesla Coil
Even though Hank Mills recommends building a low power solid state Tesla coil to demonstrate wireless power transmission, like most HV junkies I wanted to see sparks flying off of the top load. The Tesla coil you see below, was the culmination of 20 years of desire to build. I offer gratitude to my friend Daniel Perkins, a long time Nikola Tesla enthusiast and Tesla coil builder, for his gentle and steady encouragement over the years to not give up, and to Chris Boden for putting together a wonderful video series on how to build a Tesla coil. I used information from these two sources and more to build my first coil which you see above. Lastly, I would like to offer my gratitude to Larry Desario former owner of Santa Maria Neon Sign Company in Atascadero, CA for contributing 4 - 15,000 volt 60mA neon sign transformers (NST's) to my cause. Only one NST still powers my Tesla coil. The other three died in the line of experimental duty.
Useful & Fun Tesla Links
Chris Boden's videos on Tesla coils
We recommend reviewing all of their Tesla material. I found a wealth of information there that aided me in building my Tesla coil.
http://onetesla.com
Javascript Tesla Coil Designer
Pupman.com
Phasing Neon Sign Transformers for Tesla Coil Use Part-1 - YouTube
Javascript Tesla Coil Designer
Terry Blake Spark Gaps
Asynchronous rotary spark gap analysis
Richie's Tesla Coil Web Page
Richie Burnett Tesla Design Theory
Shunts PHOTO - NST Bank
Repairing neon xfrmrs - Pupman.com
Depotting HV Power Supply Units
Rebuilding NSTs (Depotting)
Eastern Voltage Research - Electronic Kits, Tesla Coil Kits, LED and LED Driver Kits, Home of the DRSSTC
‎www.capturedlightning.com/photos/HVStuff/HowToPart01.pdf
Transformer to Capacitance Calculator
Nikola Tesla Universe
 
Safety:

Electric Shock Hazard! This device uses 110V AC, High Voltage and a bank of capacitors that stores a deadly charge. If this device is not built in a safe manor, or is not operated in a safe manor, there can be a risk of lethal electric shock. A professor at Penn Engineering recommended that I keep one hand in my pocket. In other words, keeping one hand in my pocket would prevent an electric shock from going across my heart! The most dangerous part of a tesla coil is the "Primary Coil". TOUCHING THE PRIMARY COIL WHILE THE TESLA COIL IS IN OPERATION CAN EASILY KILL YOU. Always unplug your tesla coil before making adjustments. One can even put the extension chord plug into ones pocket. Tesla coils are fun, but they require mindfulness and sincere respect for high voltage. Before building your own tesla coil. I recommend watching all of Chris Boden's videos that deal with tesla coil building and tesla coil safety..
Cost:
If you plan to purchase all of the components to build "THIS" Tesla coil new, expect to shell out about $1000 before you see sparks come off of the top load. It is possible and even recommended to use recycled components when you can, This can greatly curb the cost of building a tesla coil. The high voltage transformer, capacitors, magnet wire, copper tubing and the plywood, will be your greatest expense. A new 15000V 60mA NST costs about USD $700 and 50 capacitors will cost about USD $350
I noticed that on instructables.com there were quite a few tutorials for building tesla coils and some of those were definitely budget oriented. It may be worth checking out.
Where and how to find cheaper parts. I certainly don't have all of the answers, but first let me ask if you have a salvage yard or a recycled building materials store in your area? If you do, I would start there.
Salvage Yards:
• 1/4" copper tubing
• 12 amp variable autotransformer (variac)
• 15,000V 60mA Neon Sign Transformer
• Braided Copper Wire (for grounding)
• 22 Gage Copper Magnet Wire
• Top Load parts
Recycled Building Material Outlets: These establishments can be a great resource for finding cheap, recycled building materials. (plywood, copper tubing, nuts and bolts, wire, PVC pipe etc).
Garage Sales, Swap Meets, Flea Markets: These are always good sources to find Tesla coil parts, transformers etc.
Neon Sign Builders: Please see the info on NSTs below.
Tools Needed:
The basic power tools I used in making my tesla coil were a cordless drill motor, a variable speed 110V drill motor (Skill Classic), table saw, drill press, band saw, spindle sander, hot melt glue gun and a soldering gun. I'm assuming that you have all of the other basic hand tools available to assist in the construction. Examples of such are screw drivers, crescent wenches, hack saw, wire stripers, needle nose pliers, diagonal cutter etc.
I am fortunate in that I have a full wood shop at my disposal. As you can see from from the photo above, I was wanting to go a step beyond the ordinary and add some artistic creativity to my tesla coil. The support platforms however can be made of relatively inexpensive 3/4" particle board or chip board. You don't need to go fancy if you don't want to. I created my design to be a piece of art and to allow for maximum accessibility of the primary coil which is important for tuning the Tesla coil.
You will also need a work space like a large table or a work bench throughout the entire construction process.
Main parts for my coil include:
• 1/2 sheet of nice 3/4 inch plywood.
• 4 fairly heavy duty castors and steel bolts, washers and nuts for mounting.
• 15,000 Volt 60mA (milli-amp) NST (Neon Sign Transformer).
• 1/8 inch Plexiglas (for MMC capacitor Construction).
• 40 Cornell Dublier 0.15 microfarad, 2000VDC (#942C20P15K-F) capacitors in a series/parallel configuration.
• 33" of winding for my secondary coil with 22 gage heavy coated magnet wire. (3 pound role).
• 48" length of 4" Schedule 40 PVC Pipe.
• 2 - 4" SCH 40 PVC Caps.
• 1 - 4" SCH 40 PVC Coupling.
• 1 - 4" PVC or ABS toilet flange with knockout plug (base for secondary coil).
• 1 - 50 foot role of 1/4 inch soft cooper tubing.
• One grounding lug. Aluminum or copper, either is fine.
• 20" bicycle rim (for toroid). Also see alternate method in the Toroid section below.
• large box of flexible aluminum dryer duct.
• A large role of aluminum foil tape.
• 1 role of vinyl electrical tape.
• 1 role of rubber splicing tape.
• Various bolts and threaded rod ranging from 1/4' to 3/8", including nylon bolts for the toilet flange.
• 12 Amp Variable Transformer (Variac) to regulate input voltage to the NST. (optional but highly recommended).
• 1 small box of 1 1/2 inch self tapping utility screws. They look kind of like drywall screws but are more heavy duty. One can also pre-drill the needed holes and use less expensive drywall screws. I was lazy and had the others available.
• Wood Glue.
• Hot melt glue gun and glue sticks.
• 1 1/2 inch paint brush (use a good brush to avoid bristles from getting onto your secondary coil). Either spray or brush-on polyurethane finish.
• Heavy duty soldering pencil or soldering gun.
• 1 role of silver bearing solder.
• Soldering Flux.
• 1 surface mount single gang metal electrical box.
• 5 feet of 12 gage extension cord cable.
• 1 suitable MALE plug for one end of the extension cord cable. The other end will get hard-wired into the metal box
• 1 1/2 inch standard metal romex connector for electrical box (strain relief).
• 1 standard single gang 15 amp receptacle and metal cover plate.
• 1 grounding screw for receptacle.
• Yellow and red wire nuts (a few).
• 20 feet high voltage wire from neon sign shop.
• 1 nice, straight and clean piece of 2 inches X 8 inches X 6 feet piece of Douglas Fir for the secondary coil winding jig.
• 1 - 4 foot piece of 5/16 inch threaded rod including various nuts and washers and 1 lock nut (secondary coil winding jig).
• 6 - 3 inch drywall screws for winding jig.
• A set of standard drill bits up to 1/2"
• Crimp-on wire connectors
• Enough 1/2 inch pliexiglas to build the base for the HV kickback filter and the three point safety gap.
• Additional parts for the three point spark gap include three 1 inch brass knobs with 1/2 inch deep 5/16 X 18 threaded holes, 3 - 5/16 inch steel bolts, nuts and washers, 3 - 5/16 of an inch threaded rod couplings, 3 - 5/16 of an inch beveled machine screws, and 3 - 5/16 of an inch thumb screws for the top. 1" brass knobs were were purchased from MSC Industrial Supply. Part number 06871214.
That should be pretty close to the complete tools and materials list. I have been a computer technician, carpenter, plumber, electrician and general handyman for most of my adult life. As a result much of the construction aspect of building a tesla coil came very easily to me. If you don't beleive you have all the skills to build it, like I said above, perhaps there is someone out there who does have the skills and can help you.
I built the toroid, the winding jig for the secondary coil and the secondary coil, following guidelines provided by http://www.thegeekgroup.org videos. I also designed my MMC capacitor based on what I saw on thegeekgroup.com videos, however I used 40 caps in a series parallel configuration (explained below).
The Tesla Coil Circuit
A good place to start in your construction of your Tesla Coil, is to familiarize yourself with the Tesla coil schematic and understand how all the elements of the device fit and work together. Then you can begin assembling the parts and constructing your Tesla coil. The floorboard of my tesla coil is 22" square and has wheels on the bottom so it can be easily moved around the living room floor. If I could do it over again I would make the base 25" square. But it was what we had available in our wood storage.
The seven components are:

• The support mechanism for your Tesla Coil.
• The High Voltage Power Supply. In most hobbiest cases, this will be a neon sign transformer.
• The top load or toroid.
• The primary coil or winding.
• The secondary coil or winding.
• The MMC (multiple mini capacitor) capacitor. (HV Capacitor).
• The Spark Gap.

Tesla Coil Circuit For Dual Output Neon Sign Transformer

At the left of the diagram the circuit begins with '110V power in' or "AC Mains" as the diagram calls it. Next in line is the high voltage neon sign transformer (NST). The NST shares its total voltage with two secondary coils. So if your NST is a 15,000V device, it will have two 7,500V outputs, one on either side. This is done mainly to avoid having to shield and insulate for higher voltages. One of each HV outputs from the NST will go to each side of the Spark Gap. From there, one wire from either side of the spark gap will go to the first winding of the primary coil. From the other side of the spark gap, a wire will go to one terminal of your MMC capacitor. The other capacitor terminal has a wire that will clip onto one of the primary coil windings. On my coil it was the 11th winding. That it is! The secondary coil is not physically attached to the primary coil. Energy is transferred to the secondary coil from the primary coil through inductance (an induced electromagnetic field). The wire coming off of the bottom of the secondary coil goes to ground. The top of the secondary coil connects to the top load. The top load acts as a capacitor with the atmosphere and the earth. Imagine the top load as being one plate of the capacitor, the atmosphere as being the dielectric, and the earth as the other plate of the capacitor. That is exactly what is happening and it is the top load that provides us with that wonderful lightning display. Very cool stuff.
Note: There is an alternate wiring diagram for Tesla coil circuits that use a 'single HV output' transformer. Observe how one whole side of the circuit connects to ground.

Tesla Coil Circuit For Single Output High Voltage Transformer
The Spark Gap
"The Spark Gap is the Brain of the Tesla Coil"
Daniel Perkins
First let me say there are many types of spark gap designs. Three of these are most commonly used by Tesla coil builders. The simplest and easiest to build, and which also happens to be the one used in my design, is the static spark gap (photos below). The other two are Quench Gaps and Rotary Spark Gaps. I will not go into these in this tutorial, but I do recommend searching the web and learning more about them.
One way to add a quenching effect to a spark gap is to draw fresh air over the gap while the Tesla coil is in operation. This helps remove ionized gases that reduce resistance between the spark gap and drastically limit performance. It has been my experience so far, that maintaining a negative pressure (sucking) inside the spark gap housing is better than positive pressure (blowing).
If you use this spark gap design for your coil, be sure to lightly sand the interior of the 4 inch PVC pipe and apply a couple coats of clear polyurethane finish. After running my Tesla coil for a while using this spark gap, I began to notice carbon tracking on the interior surface of the PVC pipe. The carbon tracking originated from the electrodes and was heading to the grounded fan motor. Coating the interior surface of the PVC pipe took care of the problem.
Be sure to construct the spark gap and the support structure for your tesla coil such that there is at least 5 inches of space between the top of the spark gap houing and the toilet flange (base for secondary). The total height of my spark gap is 6 inches.
The spark gap electrodes are made of 5/16 inch stainless steel threaded rod. Electrode ends are cut flat and polished. Past the electrode ends are 2 fender washers separated by nuts. These serve as cooling fins. The housing for the electrodes is made of 4 inch SCH 40 PVC pipe. A 120 Volt computer cooling fan is mounted to the top of the housing and is positioned to suck air. This fan is very useful in quenching the spark gap of ionized gasses. My spark output increased by a third using this fan. This is a very safe, effective and ultra-simple spark gap design. The PVC pipe helps to shield harmful UV light from viewers.
In order to mount the fan I used two 1 - 1/ 8 inches slices off of a 4" SCH 40 PVC coupling. The fan fit nicely into the piece of coupling, so I used this to my advantage. I built a round mounting bracket for the motor out of 1/8'" plywood. The motor is screwed to the bracket with two screws and nuts, and the bracket was glued into one of the PVC coupling slices. I had to drill a 1/4" hole for the motor wires. Then to see how things fit, I slipped one of the PVC rings over the top of the spark gap housing and pu

My Home-Made Bob Beck Magnetic Pulser (Thumper)
Based on the Designs by Chris Gupta and Bil Green

If you made it to this web page, you most likely have already been researching the Bob Beck Protocol. If you have no knowledge of electronics and are wanting to build your own pulser, I recommend thoroughly going over Chris Gupta's Pulser page first and then coming back here to fill in the blanks. Here I offer photographs of my very first fully manual Beck style mag pulser, along with additional information that may be of assistance to anyone wanting to build their own device.

Bob Beck Protocol Information: If you would like to learn more about Robert Beck and the Beck Protocol, you can view several Google Videos by clicking on the following Link - Beck Video. Beyond these videos, there is a wealth of information on the Internet about the Bob Beck Protocol. In a nutshell however it implies a four process system involving blood electrification, electromagnetic pulse, colloidal silver and ozonated water. If you are experiencing cancer, HIV, lupus, Candida or one or more of a host of other ailments, it would be worth your time to research this health process. Also, you can download the accompanying manual that was handed out to participants of the Bob Beck Lecture ("Take Back Your Power" (1MB PDF). I have searched high and low for this and finally found the complete document.
Important technical information provided by Russ Torlage of Sota Instruments regarding the construction of electromagnetic pulsers can be found by clicking on this link.
The information I provide on this web page is an account of what I have learned in the process of studying Beck devices and building my own units for my own experimentation purposes. I assume no responsibility for anything one might do with the information provided on this web page. Please view any explanations as hypothetical and not as instructions to be followed.
Lethal Electric Shock Hazard!
This device uses 120V AC current and a powerful capacitor that charges up to 360V. If this device is not built in a safe manor, there can be a risk of lethal electric shock. It would advisable for individuals that are unfamiliar with electronics, to have someone like a TV repairman build this device for them. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE be absolutely present, mindful and cautious when working around exposed capacitors. As you will read below, even a shock by a single capacitor from a disposable camera, can be extremely unpleasant. A professor at Pen Engineering jokingly recommended that I keep one hand in my pocket. In other words, keeping one hand in my pocket would prevent an electric shock from traveling across my heart!
Looking on the bright side however, Chris Gupta told me that many people have successfully built and are using this device based on his schematic. I'm just asking those that are intending to build this machine, to use safe practices when working around exposed capacitors and hot electrical wires.
Please take a close look at the all of the photos and images below before reading on. As I don't provide a lead-in, reviewing the images will help you to understand what I'm talking about.
All measurements are in Inches.
Plastic Box Outside Dimensions: approximately 2-3/8 X 4-1/4 X 7-3/8

Using 1/2 inch #4 beveled machine screws I fastened a 1/8 inch Plexiglas sub-floor to the bottom of the box in order to allow for the attachment of the Terminal Contact Bars and the home-made bracket for the SCR. The sub-floor also provides an insulated surface for the circuit components to be mounted to. Screws were counter sunk into the outside-bottom of the plastic box and fastened on the inside with a lock washers and nuts. After all components were soldered and attached to the sub-floor, the sub-floor was then fastened to the ends of the four screws coming up from the bottom of the box and again fastened with nuts and lock washers.
Looking at Chris Gupta's Mag Pulser circuit, Gupta has the on/off switch on the negative or neutral side circuit. It should be switching the hot lead not the neutral lead! First the On/Off switch and then the bulbs are on the positive side of the circuit. In electrical circuits, generally it is always the hot lead (+) that is switched.
Implementing a Strain Relief:
Strain reliefs are essential for electrical safety. They prevent cables from being ripped out of a circuit in the event an electrical device gets dropped or e.g., should someone trip over an electrical chord.
The SCR:
The SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier) and has three contacts.

      
SCR Update November 2016: I have now switched to a new surface mount SCR that is more robust than the Phillips ECG 5529 post mount SCR I was using. The new SCR is the LittleFuse SK065KTP. The LittleFuse SK065KTP SCR is rated for 1000V, has a 41A continuous and an 950A peak amperage rating, which exceeds Gupta's design specs. At least in my searching on the web, I found that S602L that Gupta lists on his schematic actually is not in compliance with his own specifications for that component, as it only has a "Peak Amp" rating of 255A. Gupta told me that component specs vary depending the on manufacturer that makes it. He also told me that a heat sink for the SCR was not necessary. I had already ordered it however, so I went ahead and installed it anyway. New photos of my upgraded EMP based on Chris Gupta's design can be found at the bottom of this page.

Note: The trigger gate on this SCR is 50mA and may not be suitable as is, for use with Gupta's auto-pulsing circuit without installing an additional triggering circuit. This is because the neon bulb may not be able to transmit enough current to trigger the SCR. It's not an issue with the SCR that Gupta recommends, however as I stated above, it is underpowered for this circuit.

Specifications are as follows:

:
LittleFuse SK065KTP SCR

Product Category: SCRs
Manufacturer: Littelfuse
Breakover Current IBO Max: 950 A
Rated Repetitive Off-State Voltage VDRM: 1 kV
Off-State Leakage Current @ VDRM IDRM: 0.03 mA
On-State RMS Current - It RMS: 65 A
Vf - Forward Voltage: 1.8 V
Gate Trigger Voltage - Vgt: 2 V
Gate Trigger Current - Igt: 50 mA
Holding Current Ih Max: 80 mA
Maximum Operating Temperature: + 125 C
Minimum Operating Temperature: - 40 C
Mounting Style: Through Hole
Package / Case: TO-218
Series: Sxx65x
Packaging: Tube
Current Rating: 41 A
Height: 12.62 mm (Max)
Length: 16 mm (Max)
Non Repetitive On-State Current: 950 A
Width: 4.78 mm (Max)
Bulbs and Lamp Holders : In Chris Gupta's design the bulbs act as current limiters and protect the SCR from over-current and short circuiting. Light bulbs were commonly used for this purposes in electrical circuits well into the 1960's. Gupta recommnded using candelabra lamp holders as they take up less space and are less bulky. Holes of the appropriate size were drilled into the top of the box about 1 inch in from the edges. The main thing here, is to make sure that the bulbs are not touching when screwed into their sockets. My pulser makes use of two spherical shaped 60W bulbs. The spherical bulbs were more aesthetically pleasing to me than traditional candelabra bulbs. Should a bulb burn out, replace it before continued use. One problem these days is finding incandescent bulbs. Thanks to the Globalist agenda, incandescent light bulbs are becoming harder to find. LED and fluorescent bulbs cannot be used for this purpose. You might ask, can the mag pulser be built without bulbs? The answer is yes and it requires the use of a 50VA 120V —> 230V isolation transformer. A 100W 30 Ohm power resistor and a cooling fan are also needed to prevent the transformer from over heating. Please see schematic below. This build requires intermediate electronics and soldering skills.

Note: Keep in mind that the bulbs do get hot if you are using the pulser for several minutes at a time.
Inductor Coil: Make your life easier and purchase a beautiful "perfect lay" 2.5mH inductor coil wound with 16 AWG magnet wire from US Coils Part #EAC35-16-2500

Connecting the Inductor Coil: The inductor coil attaches to the Cathode of the SCR and to the negative 'Contact Bar' of the capacitor bank.
Connecting the Low Current Push To Make" Switch: The "push-to-make" switch attaches to the gate of the SCR and to the 10K resistor. The other end of the 10K resistor attaches to the positive (+) side of the circuit, after the voltage doubler. The voltage doubler is comprised of the capacitor just past the bulbs and the two diodes and converts the 120V house voltage to 260V! I have now switched to 1000V, 10 amp diodes for this location. 1000V diodes are cheap and they add an additional safety measure to protect from unforeseen voltage spikes.
SOMTHING TO THINK ABOUT: Russ Torladge of Sota Instruments claims that having a capacitor with a higher micro-farad rating will not increase the intensity of the magnetic pulse, but rather increases the pulse duration. So perhaps it is better to stick with a single photo flash capacitor (Rubycon 600uF 450V PhotoFlash Capacitor). Russ Torladge of Sota Instruments uses a single 600uF 450V photoflash capacitor made by Cornell Dubilier in his mag pulser device. Unfortunately, unless one is willing to purchasing 100 capacitors, the Cornell Dubilier ST1057 strobe capacitor is unobtainable. If people want to join forces, perhaps we can round up 50-100 individuals that want the capacitor, maybe we can arrange a joint purchase? I can arrange the order through my account with Newer Technologies. 10 years ago the quote was $4000 ($40 each). Here is a photo of the Cornell Dubilier ST1057 Strobe Capacitor. It is rated for 30,000,000 (30 million) discharges. In other words it's not likely to wear out.

Because the ST1057 is not available to us, the next best option for C2 is a standard Rubycon photoflash rated at 450V 600uF. They sell for about USD $10. If you use your mag pulser for 10 minutes several times per week, you will need to replace the capacitor in about a year. When the capacitor starts to go bad the oil fill housing will begin to swell from internal pressure. Be sure to check it from time to time.

 

Click on photo to Enlarge
Click here for more information on capacitor charge calculations.
Originally Chris Gupta recommended that people who wanted to build this device on a budget, could go to stores with photo processing equipment and collect used disposable cameras to salvage the capacitors from. That is how I built my first mag pulser. Obviously things have changes in the last 30 years. If you want to build this device, just use the Rubicon capacitor I mentioned above. Then you will only need one capacitor, instead of five. Also, if you are using a single capacitor, you won't need a five contact terminal connector. Originally, two 5-contact terminal contact bars were used (see above diagram), one on either side of the circuit to solder the photo flash capacitors to. As the capacitors need to be connected in parallel, each Terminal Contact Bar has a piece of 14 gage copper wire soldered at each contact across the span of the bar to unify all contacts. The Negative pole of each capacitor is soldered to one contact of the terminal contact bar and the same for the positive side of the capacitors. Be sure the screw mounts are facing toward the outside. Once the capacitors were soldered in place, I marked the hole locations on the Plexiglas sub-floor and drilled the holes. The assembly was then fastened to the sub floor with 1/2 inch #4 Phillips machine screws, lock washers and nuts. See images below.
During testing, when I discharged C2, it sounded like a firecracker going off in my ear and the tips of the 14 gage wire were slightly melted. One does not want to get shocked by that! A jolt like that going across one's heart could be lethal! - Please be careful and always discharge capacitors, even if you think they are not charged. Instructions to build a capacitor discharge tool that will safely discharge a bank of capacitors is outlined above.
Making a Capacitor Discharge Tool: One can make a capacitor discharge tool with two insulated alligator clips, about 16 inches of 14 gage stranded wire and a 10,000 ohm, wire-wound, 10 Watt resistor. Solder an insulated alligator clip to either end of the insulated wire. Then cut the wire about 7 inches from one end, and solder the resistor in place. Now wrap the resistor and solder points with at least three layers of ELECTRICAL TAPE.

Discharging Capacitors: Carefully connect the alligator clips to the capacitor terminals (one clip to each exposed terminal). The resistor will drop the voltage down in a minute or so.  

Diodes: Diodes are also directional and must be installed properly. Their primary function is to insure the flow of current is only in one direction. This symbol

is used to indicate a diode in a circuit diagram. Current flows from the cathode side to the anode side. If they are installed with the polarity reversed, your pulser will not work. The stripe on any diode indicates the cathode side and the negative pole.

About flying fender washers: My washers don't fly up from the center of the coil as with some other designs. Washers on my unit fly in line with the sides of the coil. When experimenting with this, one needs to play around with the magnetic field until one finds the right spot. Once I figured out the correct positioning for the washer, I was able to get a 1-1/2 inch fender washer to soar about 40 inches into the air. Pretty amazing!         

          

Starting my Pulser for the First Time: I didn't know what to expect when I plugged the chord into the outlet and pressed the on switch for the first time. The lights came on momentarily and then went out. Chris Gupta told me this was normal.

Should you build your own machine based on this design, and after turning the unit on, the lights come on and stay on, immediately turn the machine off and troubleshoot your assembly! Also if the lights don't come on at all, then something is amiss as well. I had rubber gloves on when I pressed the push-to-make switch for the first time. When pressing the push-to-make switch the lights shown brightly and I could hear a slight momentary sound from the wires in the coil. Again, Chris said this was normal. All was well and I had successfully built my pulser. After repeated pulses, the coil will begin to get warm. This too is normal.
Note: Always press and instantly release the push-to-make switch. The circuit is designed for repeated but momentary bursts of electromagnetic pulses. Keeping the push-to-make switch depressed will damage your pulser.
One should consider saturating the induction coil with some kind of resin and let it cure, to prevent the wires inside the coil from moving when the machine is discharged. The movement of wires inside the coil is in effect wasting energy that could be converted into electromagnetic energy. Also, such movement over time can cause the insulation of the magnet wire to wear through, and cause the coil to short out internally. I purchased a large bottle of super glue available at most hobby stores and poured a substantial amount into the coil. I then sprayed a little super glue catalyst onto the coil that made the glue cure instantly on the surface. The catalyst is also available at the same hobby shop where the glue is purchased. The catalyst is very handy to speed up the curing process. I still let the coil sit over night before using it, to make sure all of the glue had cured on the inside. Be careful when doing this, because super glue will instantly bond skin. Also one also doesn't want to inadvertently glue the coil to whatever it is sitting on. Use acetone for cleanup
Chris Gupta's Instructions and parts List:
Well finally, I (Chris Gupta) have got all the wrinkles out my prototype SCR Thumpy. And this circuit has definitely got the power. You can actually feel an electric current pulse when used in the neck area - uncanny! This is subtle however. I hasten to add that power is not the be all and end all, indeed, it is quite possible to design very effective low power pulsers with exceptionally fast pulse rise times that can surpass the performance of even the most powerful pulser. Unlike t